Sheepskin Leather and it's use in
bookbinding.
Sheepskin has been used in bookbinding for
more than 500 years, and yet today it is maligned as
being inferior to all other leathers and thought little
of, but as Matt T. Roberts and Don Etherington
say in Bookbinding and the Conservation of books. A
Dictionary of Descriptive Terminology. "Sheepskin is
a reasonably durable leather if properly prepared and
cared for." And so I believe it is, I rediscovered the
joys of sheepskin by accident, in my search for a
lightweight, economical leather, suitable for general
quality case work.....Lets have a look at sheepskin and find out
a little more about it:
Sheepskin is a soft, porous leather
produced from the skins of wooled or hair sheep. It is
usually vegetable-tanned and often "grained" in imitation
of other (more expensive) skins, e.g., morocco, a process
to which it lends itself very well. The term "sheepskin"
always indicates an un split skin.
Sheepskin is somewhat difficult to describe because the
individual skins differ so greatly in size, fat content, and
general quality of the dermal network. From the standpoint of
leather, the closer a sheepskin approaches the hair sheep, the
tighter and firmer the fiber network, and, therefore, the
better the skin for producing leather. This is the case because
the numerous fine wool fibers, as opposed to the lesser number
of coarse fibers of the hair sheep, cause the skin to be more
open and loose in texture. In addition, the wool follicles are
associated with extensive glandular structures, consisting of
sebaceous and sudoriferous glands, which also interrupt the
dense packing of the connective-tissue fiber network in the
papillary layers, as well as the dermis itself.
The grain layer of sheepskin occupies more
than a half of the total thickness of the skin;
furthermore, in the reticular layer, the collagen fibers
are not as compact and run in more closely horizontal
directions.
The proportion of adipose tissue to
collagen fibers in sheepskin varies widely according to
the feeding of the animal. There is frequently an almost
continuous layer of fat cells separating the grain layer
and the reticular layer. Because much of the fatty
tissues is destroyed or removed in the liming, bating,
and scudding operations, it is not unusual to find the
grain layer and reticular layer of sheepskin leathers
separated, sometimes over wide areas. The tanner at times
separates these two layers by splitting after liming, and
then tans the grain layer for bookbinding purposes, etc.,
and the reticular layer for chamois.
During the beamhouse operations. the glands
in the grain layer are destroyed, leaving the grain layer
rather spongy in structure. This, together with the
relatively loose and empty structure of the reticular
layer, places sheepskin leather in a class by itself.
Sheepskin is a reasonably durable leather if properly
prepared and cared for, and as has been said, it has been
used as a covering material for books for more than 500
years.
Flesher
The inside split (flesh split) of a lamb- or sheepskin,
embossed and finished in imitation of grained leather, and used
at times for lining the spines of cheaper blank
books.
Skiver
The outer grain split of a sheep-, lamb-, or (occasionally)
goatskin, vegetable-tanned, and usually from 0.25 to 1.0 mm
thick. Skivers are finished in a wide variety of colors and
embossed grains, as well as with a plain, smooth surface. At
one time skiver was used very extensively for labels of many
kinds of bindings, e.g., the red and black labels of law
books.
Law Sheep
A natural-colored, vegetable-tanned sheepskin, at one time used
for covering law books, but now largely superseded by
buckram.
Roan
A variety, or varieties, of leather produced from a superior
grade of un split sheepskin. Roan is softer than Basil , and is
often colored and finished in imitation of Morocco. The typical
roan has a close, tough, long, boarded grain, a compact
structure, and is usually dyed a red color. Originally, roans
were leathers tanned exclusively with sumac (as were the
morocco' s); however, in later years they were often tanned
with other vegetable tannins. They were used extensively for
covering books from about 1790 until well into the 19th
century, but have been seldom used since that time.
Smyrna Morocco
A sheepskin, split and embossed with an imitation Morocco grain
pattern.
If a simple case binding is being
considered full thickness sheepskin...or goatskin for
that matter, is simply too thick for covering smaller books, by which I mean
Crown 4vo and smaller, it is not practical to pare down
full thickness skins to 1mm / 1.5mm, you can get split
goatskins but they are commonly grained and had a sprayed
pigment finish which resulted in a shiny hard leather,
difficult to pare and rather unpleasant to
handle.

Provided you make sure that you are
obtaining hair splits and not Flesher's, and if possible
that the skins are not subjected to exposure to harmful
acids in the tanning process, then I have found that the
resultant leather is eminently suitable for general
quality case work.
How long will this leather last? A lot
depends on the treatment it receives during it's life,
but judging by similar books bound in lightweight
sheepskin which we repaired or re-bound I would say
certainly good for the customers lifetime. And lets face
it, the finest book, bound in the finest materials will
ultimately decay, it's not just the difference in price
of this leather over say best goatskin, it's the fact
that right along the line it is easy to work with and
needs the minimum of paring and working, all these
factors mean that you can make a very respectable leather
case cheaply, which means that you can attract
customers to a leather bound book who otherwise might be
scared off by the price.

For economical leather case work I would
seriously suggest you take another look at this oft
maligned leather.
References:
Bookbinding and the Conservation of books.
A Dictionary of Descriptive Terminology
Matt T. Roberts and Don Etherington
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